I have had a love affair with the saree for as long as I can remember. From watching my mother meticulously drape her beautiful sarees as little girl to buying my first saree at the age of fifteen, my love for this charming garment has never waned. But even as I loved the saree, I knew little about its history or origins until I went to design school and studied it, in all its glory. The more I learned, the more it fascinated me. Like how it has its origins in the Indus valley civilization circa 2800-1800 BC? Like how every state has its own textile and drape? Like how there are different weaves and patterns like a Kanjeevaram, Paithani or Patola? Like the hours of weaving and skill that goes into the making of a single saree? The details are mind boggling and they always fill me with pride.
So the next time you wear a saree, take a minute to revel in its history. It is one that has spanned over thousands of years and thrived for centuries. It has survived numerous wars, industrial revolutions, invasions by foreigners and the hectic pace of modern life. Wear this ordinary but versatile garment with the reverence it deserves. It is a fighter and a survivor, not with the hefty gait of a soldier, but rather the grace and dignity of a warrior queen.
Here are some quick FAQ’s on the saree that I have put together.
Where does the name 'Saree' come from?
The word itself ‘Sari’ which means ‘strip of cloth’ comes from the word ‘Sattika’ meaning women’s attire. It has been referenced in ancient Jain and Buddhist literature.The earliest representation is the figurine of an Indus valley priest wearing a drape. The saree traces its origins to garments of the Indus Valley civilization circa 2800-1800 BC.
How did the saree evolve from the 'sattika'?
The Sattika consisted of the Antriya (lower garment), Uttariya (veil worn loosely over head or shoulders) and Stanapatta (chest band). This ensemble was called a 'poshak' and was worn by both men and women.
With time the Antriya progressed into the ghargra, the Uttariya into the dupatta and the Stanapatta into the choli. This eventually evolved into the saree which is an unstitched garment of five yards to nine yards in length worn with a ghargra and choli.
How many types of saree drapes are there?
The saree historian Rta Kapur Chisti, author of ‘Saris: Tradition and Beyond’ has documented 108 ways of draping a saree. Each state has its own traditional drape. However, certain drapes require different lengths of sarees. For example, the Maharashtrian ‘Nauvari’ requires nine yards to create the dhoti like drape and cannot be accomplished with the more common six yards.
How many types of Sarees are there?
There are many many permutations and combinations of sarees in terms of textiles and techniques. There are over thirty types of traditional textile sarees which include but are not limited to Banarasi silk, Kasheeda, Khun, Kasuti, Chanderi, Kanjeevaram Sarees, Assam Silk, Batik Print, Tussar silk, Assam muga silk, Dhakai Jamdani, Panchampalli, Mysore Silk, Cotton Patola, Leheriya, Maheshwari.
In addition to these there are various hand embroidery and printing techniques like the Parsi Gara, Bandhani, Madhubani print, hand Bandhej, block printing, Batik and different types of embroidery work including Kashmiri Aari work, Zardozi work, Zari work, gota patti work, Mukaish, and pearl work
What is the modern Saree?
The modern saree is an unstitched piece of fabric that is usually six yards in length. It is worn draped around a saree skirt and over a choli blouse. The style of the common drape with pleats and a pallu across the choli hanging at the back of the shoulders is the Nivi style of drape. It is believed this style evolved so as to be more palatable to the prim sensibilities of the Victorian era British. The existing drapes of exposed midriffs worn without a choli was a shock to the newly arrived colonizers and so was adapted to the Nivi style to accommodate a free mingling of societies.
Major influencers of the last century?
In the early parts of the 19th century the royal women of India have influenced the styles of sarees worn. Namely women like the Maharani Indira Devi of Cooch Behar and her daughter the Rajmata Gayatri Devi of Jaipur, were widely emulated for their styles of sarees. Always modestly draped, these sarees were the precursors of the chiffon and crepe varieties seen today. This language of fluid fabrics gracefully draped in soft pastels and watercolor florals continue to inspire designers even today.
The other major influencers continue to be Indian cinema. Beginning with the early black and white movies to the iconic heroines of Yash Chopra movies to the Manish Malhotra heroines of today. From Rekha in Silsila to Alia Bhatt today, is where all of the Indian subcontinent gets its traditional fashion cues.
.